![]() When adjusted properly, you can fundamentally change the personality of the car.īushing material and type are very important. If you are looking to use the car for performance driving (not on the street), the best mod you can make are adjustable shocks and struts. I don't lower my cars more than 1" they don't look "cool", but they handle really well. Progressive springs aren't my first choice for performance driving. If your roads are rough, consider progressive springs. The basic guidelines are to make sure your bushings and ball joints are in good shape (if they're original to the car, they're probably bad) choose suspension components that don't lower the car too much or make the car too stiff (too low and too stiff make these cars handle worse) eliminate the "factory-installed" understeer by adding a larger REAR sway bar (25mm is good for most V8s your Cobra might already have a larger rear bar) and don't run staggered wheels and tires (they ADD understeer). ![]() My focus is obviously on autocross, but I have helped people looking to make their cars more comfortable/feel better for safe street driving. Also brakes are something to research.You can build a very capable SN95 Mustang without coil-overs. Plus I can always return the parts, just costs me some money in shipping. I spent the money and just went ahead and bought all the parts, because there's no way to get the type of look I want with the little amount of room the stock length a-arms and fender clearance provides. It is a bit of a process and can cost quite a bit if you need to change wheels and play with the sway bar. A 7" would most likely fit maybe an 8", but that all depends on your backspacing.Īlso, you'll need adjustable caster camber plates for the top of your strut towers to get your alignment right (or close enough). I had 9" wheels narrowed down to about 6.5". I had 8" wheels before on the front with a 6+ inch backspacing and there's no way those will fit with the coilovers. In theory, you're only problems lie in the sway bar and tire clearance from the tire to coilovers. I'm going to be using '94 to '95 spindles with bumpsteer (because I'll be lowering the car quite a bit). I had just planned on running no sway bar in the front. there could be a possibility of making your own mounts on the a-arms, but I haven't got into that yet. Honestly I've been around the whole sway bar problem too. I went with the 1" shorter a-arms and coilovers like you are looking at from UPR. I also didn't have any problems bolting the stock a-arms to the k-member. the k-member I got bolted right up to the factory mounts in the frame, had to egg out the back holes in the k-member a little, but it wasn't a big deal at all. I have a PA racing k-member, I believe the year was '83 to '87 or '79 to '87, can't recall exactly. Thanksĭoing the exact thing you are asking about. I just dont want to buy parts that wont fit. Does the front clip of the car have the same mounting holes as the mustang? Any other thoughts on this set up? Has anyone tried this? Sorry for all the questions. I'm just not sure if the 90 GT sway bar will fit if the a arms are 1 inch shorter? Also will these tubular members bolt in the exact spot? I had trouble with my torque box kit, as the floor pan is slightly different in the fairmont. UPR sells these arms with and without the sway bar mount. The car will mostly be a weekend warrior. ![]() However I am concerned about no sway bar. It will help wheel clearance issues, as well of all of the benefits to using a tubular k member. Then I came across the UPR tubular k member kit, coil over with 1 inch shorter a arms. So I was going to use a 83 k member to keep the correct width. I was going to use a 90 k member but you guys educated on that. ![]() Ok I mentioned this in another one of my posts. ![]()
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